Collections Accessoires. Hiver 2008-2009.

It was a sweet surprise today when my friend Mohammed left the latest issue of L’Officiel for me on my desk. Laurence Beurdeley opens the issue with the expected nothing, noting the collections that, “all have something of the 60s about them.” Again again, turn turn turn, we’re looking at fashion through the lens of a particular past decade. I love the design of the era, if one can really define it, but for me the collections seemed a bit erratic, though I am pleased to see less of the logos. How can one not detest the fashion as advertisement for fashion accessory nowadays? To be frank, I want to vomit into every Marina Girl’s LV-logo-littered bag, personally.

Beurdeley continues, “As for the suede fringed boots seen on the Balmain, Gucci and Paul & Joe runways have their reason for being, in harmony with the chic glam hippie looks that characterize the elegant attitude of the three houses.” Given, this is translated from the French, but huh?! I’m not sure one can even be all of those things. In fact, no. It’s just not possible.

Anyway, here’s a little peep at some pieces that stood out.

The Good

Dolce & Gabbana. Gorgeous, understated color. Function (as a cache, a carryon for the flight) and minimal, necessary hardware.

*

Christian Louboutin. Contemporary ankle-boot (a shoe of which I will never tire) with the perfect stiletto ratio for an arch. Classic.

*

Celine. It’s a little off-beat, true. And I was admittedly hesitant to add this little glove-pouch, but it just seems like it would be so fun to use. Cerulean satin? How pretty and punk.

For young women only, though. We can get away with being a little silly.

*

Salvatore Ferragamo. Now here is a shoe that defies (not defines) era. When I say it’s versitile, I mean, really. This could be office, jeans, gown. And just slightly edgy enough for fun.

*

Bottega Veneta. Someone’s been paying attention to a little street fashion. Yes, the girls have been wearing full on granny-shoes. Thank you for adding a little heel. I think it works!

*

Chanel. He does it again and again. This is a timeless shoe.

*

Bottega Veneta. Each of these is a perfect clutch. Both elegant and strong without compromise.

*

The Bad

Gucci. Oh come on already. I feel like I have to relive that horrible Almost Famous with this one. Yeah, I get it that it’s “luxe hippie” or whatever, but this shoe annoys me almost as much as poo-dreads.

I’m aware of the crass language, and I think it’s been earned.

*

Prada. I might be the only girl in the world who kind-of gagged at their little emo girl in the forest film. She wakes up and discovers monsters and fairies and shoes! That whole shebang was just wrong. Anyway, this shoe is obviously from this flower petal-ly inspiration and it’s pretty, except that you can’t wear it as it’s designed.

On the models, there is a pale ballerina elastic strap that has to come across the bridge of the foot, which just ruins the whole thing. A well-designed and beautiful shoe should not need so obvious a crutch. And to not even show it? Bleh.

*

Yves Saint Laurent. I adore the stiletto, again. And I love the open cuff of this ankle-boot. But that damn stacked platform is just silly. This could have been so good, which makes me very sad.

*

The WTF, I Know, Right?

Christian Dior. Okay, Dior knows their customer. And there is going to be one brave Japanese 30-something who rocks this (perhaps literally?) I realize the shoe-as-sculpture high ahhhht thing is always going to be a point of contention. My main peeve with this is that it’s fuschia suede. That’s two ingredients too many.

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